Check F44 fuse under the rear seat.
There's a relay behind the RH rear interior trim on the rear
of the wheel well. wht/blu wire to pin 3 is power in from window
switch, and red/blu wire at pin 2 is power out to window motor.
If you can get power to the red/blu wire you maybe able to open
the window.
This wire should also be available at the hinge point on the
gate side. Red wire with blue stripe, is in LH side harness.
You will have to cut into the harness on the gate side of the
hinge point and find the red/blu wire and apply power. This
bypasses the switch and relay. Since your problem may be the
switch, the relay, or the latch motor instead of wiring I would
check these first.
1. Check with a multi-meter at the red/blu wire both sides of
the hinge point while operating the window switch. If it is
wiring you will have power car side of hinge point only. If
neither proceed to;
2. Switch wiring is wht/grn/yel (mine was wht/blk/yel, the yel
is bands) input (hot all the time) and wht/blu out (hot with
switch made) these are in the RH harness. These are okay if
you have power in the first step.
Now, first problem is that the main cover over the inside
of tail gate has one screw that's under the window latch cover,
window must be open to get to it. By the way Bentley's is
a help, but not here as it doesn't show how to get the inner
cover off the gate.
If you can get the glass up, pry off the black latch cover
see picture 7A
#12, and remove the 1 screw (pic.
8A #13) to the right of center holding the interior cover.
To remove the inner cover, raise the gate, open the tool tray,
unfasten the tool tray straps (pic.3A
#8). When the tool tray moves down pass the strap limits,
it will come out (off the gate). Around the edge of the tool
tray opening, there are some small (1/2" x 3/4")(pic.
3A #9) plastic plugs, use a small thin screw driver or
point of a knife to pry them out. There are retainer nuts
under these plugs. Inside the tool tray well there are 4 plug
retainers (pic 5A #10) at
the back edge, these are removed by lifting the centers (pic
16A) out until the plugs can be removed, the centers spread
(swell) the outer plug to make them stay put. Now you will
have 2 plastic flanged nuts, in some cars these are plastic
screws, (pic 5A #11)in the
tool well, and the 1 screw under the glass latch cover if
you couldn't open the glass, plus a few stab-in clips, that
are not visible, holding the interior cover on. You can remove
the 2 flange nuts and pry the cover away from the gate. You
will now have access to all the wire connections, latch and
lock switches and motors.
Gate side harness covers are held by 3 screws, 2 under bumpers
for the window (pic 9A #14)
and 1 plastic screw on the side(pic
10A #15).
Small cover above the harness grommet has a snap in button(pic
13A #16) pry in loose. In picture
13A #17 is the defroster cable grommet, you will reuse
this.
On the gate side there is a positioner for the harness,
move the harness aside and you will find two screws (pic
14A #18), this also has a cover that snaps on (#19),
remove it.
On the gateway side the molding has to be removed.
1. Remove the trim strip across the thresh hole (pic
2A #4 screws and #7
retainer plugs).
2. Side molding is held by 2 screws and the weather striping
(pic 1A #3 and #2 is screw
under cover in tie down D ring)
3. Pull molding out from under weather striping.
Harness replacement; BMW has one for left (PN# 61-10-8-365-704)
and right (PN# 61-10-8-365-702)(pic
1A #1). They basically have 2 ends. One end is all the
connectors (license plate light, reverse light, window micro
switch, etc.) and washer tubing for the rear jet in the RH
harness. They also have the 2 connectors for the rear window
heater. The other end of the harness is cut wires that get
spliced into the old harness. I matched all the wires and
made sure they all were the right color. Everything matched
except for there is only 9 wires(RH harness) in the old harness
and 10 in the new one. The extra wire (yellow/white) went
to the taillight. It must be for cars equipped with rear fog
lights. Be sure to match wires as some cars have different
color coding, you can match these with the connectors of the
old harness. Before disconnecting the battery; Remove the
washer jet before starting the wiring job. You will need 2
squeeze clamps (PN# 16-13-1-379-229). With the jet held up
you can unscrew the cap and remove the jet to get to the hose.
The other end of the hose can be disconnected at the pump
(pic 1A #6). I disconnected
the battery and verified were I would cut the harness(RH side).
It has to be cut after the rear washer motor connector and
the right outer taillight connector. The 2 connectors for
the heated rear window have there own grommet that slides
into a hole provided in the harness/washer tube grommet that
seals against the body. In order to get the 2 connectors through
this hole you may have to push the metal pin out of the plastic
connector. There is a lock tab that has to be removed first
and then you have to carefully push the pin out. BMW has a
special tool for removing pins. Put the wires though and then
reinstall on the connectors. I was able to work them through
one at a time without removing the insulator. I pulled the
harness up through the hole were the harness enters the body
(gate end) and cut the harness there and pulled it back down
(tie a length of cord on the old harness at the cut point).
This gave me another foot or so length to pull the harness
into a better work area. It also gave me extra room in case
I had to cut it again if I messed it up. I then disconnected
the connectors in the hatch area and pulled out the old harness.
I ran the new harness, plugged everything in and ran the new
wiring and washer tubing out the hatch, down the side of the
window, into and down the body(pulled back thru with the cord).
Make sure you are on the correct side of the hatch shock.
I'm now ready to join the new and old wire harnesses. I used
butt splices, however they can be soldered. If soldered be
sure to use heat shrink-wrap slid over the wires before soldering.
The LH harness is the same procedure, more wires and no hose.
Reconnect the battery and check that everything works, before
closing up! Since I now have another foot of harness I just
tucked it behind the trim panel that covers the washer tank
after wrapping it. Now reassemble the car.
Pic 11A - Pic
6A
|
